Rock climbing

Osp

Plenty of routes and a favorable Mediterranean climate, which allows climbing throughout the whole year place Osp at the top of Slovene climbing offer. A high U-shaped wall just above the old village of Osp does not have a lot to offer to beginners, but the experienced climbers will not get bored very easily, especially if you include also the nearby crag Mišja peč. The rock is excellent and diverse so it's not wonder it attracts many climbers from near and far. Excellent base for your climbing holidays!

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Basic information
LocationOsp (Koper), Coast and Karst
Nr. of routes: 229
Difficulty: 3 / 9a
Route height: 8 - 140 m
Access: 10 min
Altitude: 50 m
Route difficulty:
4 & 5, 6 & 7, 8 & 9

How to get there:
Leave the motorway 'Ljubljana- Koper' at exit Črni Kal, then turn left at first crossroad towards Gabrovica and Osp. We come to the village in about two kilometers. At the crossroad go left again (towards campsite Vovk) and after 100 meters you will spot a long parking site near a stone fence of the campsite. We park so that we do not disturb local traffic. Parking is NOT allowed in the village center.

Access:
For sectors A (Nad Vasjo) and B (Babna) we go from the parking lot uphill through the village. A bell tower serves as a signpost all the time. Just before reaching it, we turn right and in a short while we arrive to the sector 'Nad Vasjo'. Five additional minutes of walking bring us to sector 'Babna', which lies at a higher level. For sectors in 'Velika stena' and 'Srnjak' we must go back from the parking lot to a small bridge across Osp’s stream and turn left onto a well traced path. slovenia sport climbing guideAfter 5 minutes we come to a path junction. Left path leads to sector 'Srnjak', a bit further a path branches off to the right towards the sector in the right part of Osp wall. However, if we follow the path straight on, we come to the foot of a strikingly overhanging Osp wall and sector 'Pajkova streha' in 5 minutes.

Best time for climbing:
Climbing area Osp practically does not have an off-season with the exception of extremely sunny summer days. The rock dries quickly after rain.

Orientation of the wall:
Sector 'Babna' and sector 'Nad Vasjo' (sectors A and B) are faced southwards. Although 'Srnjak' (sector C I/lI) is oriented likewise, it does not receive plenty of sunlight since a northwest oriented part of 'Velika stena' casts a shadow over it. The central part of 'Velika stena' is oriented towards southwest.

Warning:
It is not allowed to park cars in the center of the village!




Link to the skecth of the crag 1 in sketch of the crag 2.



Sectors of Osp crag:


Sector A: Nad vasjo
Difficult overhanging routes with small handholds that demand strength and stamina predominate here.

Route height: 14 - 37 m



Sector B: Babna
Sector 'Babna' is the most popular in Osp. Due to the majority of routes of medium difficulty, it can get really crowded here during nice weekends. No wonder! The sector is ornated with truly beautiful and enjoyable routes with excellent and in some places sharp rock. Vertical and slightly overhanging plates with good handholds predominate, but some more overhanging routes can be found as well.

Route height: 10 - 35 m, multi-pitch up to 75 m



Sector C (I/II): Srnjak
If you wish to avoid the crowds in 'Babna', 'Srnjak' is the right choice. You practically won't not meet anybody here. Unfortunately, 'Srnjak' got the nickname “ugly duckling” of Osp. The access to the wall itself is somewhat difficult because of overgrown terrain (especially in the greener part of the year). The rock is crumbling in some places - a helmet will not be redundant. These routes can serve as a warm up before taking on 'Velika stena'. Steep plates predominate.

Route height: 22 - 35 m, multi-pitch up to 50 m



Sector C (III/IV): Velika stena (Big wall)
The extremely overhanging yellow wall is a trademark of Osp. Almost 140 meters high with its 30 meter overhang is frightening and a real challenge for every climber. Dozen routes, which demand extraordinary physical conditions both in strength and stamina, take place in the central part. On the right part of the wall there is a route called 'Medo' (grade 5c), which is the easiest way across the wall and pleasures all less experienced climbers.

Route height: 20 - 35 m, multi-pitch up to 140 m



Sector C (V): Pajkova streha
The name itself (= spider’s roof) tells us what type of climbing we are dealing with in this sector. Strongly overhanging walls and roofs are only accessible for the best climbers. Climbing on stalactites strongly resembles climbing in Kalymos but the the terrain is wetter here (due to the spring of Osp’s stream). Climbing is most favourable in the dry part of the year.

Route height: 8 - 50 m



Sector C (VI): Velika stena - right
Multi-pitch routes in the right part of Osp wall are more appropriate for late spring and summer climbing, because the wall is facing the shady side. Vertical routes with a difficult entrance predominate.

Route height: multi-pitch up to 85 m






Comments



Osp
Plenty of routes and a favorable Mediterranean climate, which allows climbing throughout the whole year place Osp at the top of Slovene climbing offer. A high U-shaped wall just above the old village of Osp does not have a lot to offer to beginners, but the experienced climbers will not get bored very easily, especially if you include also the nearby crag Mišja peč. The rock is excellent and diverse so it's not wonder it attracts many climbers from near and far. Excellent base for your climbing holidays!